Sarajevo the capital of Bosnia & Herzegovina went from Olympic City in 1984 to a city under siege during the Bosnian war that broke up Yugoslavia from 1992 till the end of 1995. The war cost over 100,000 lives and resulted in a relocation of nearly 2 million people while leaving Sarajevo in ruins. Today many say it is one of the most hospitable destinations in Europe. Just in 2004 alone tourism increased over 40%, and numerous people come to delight in the cultural riches here.

Sarajevo river

Even though 23% of all buildings in the city were severely damaged, 64% were partially damaged and 10% slightly, thirteen years later the city and its people have survived, grown stronger and even flourished. Renovation and restoration have taken place and continue to this day. You can hear the Muslim call to prayer from the numerous mosques as well as the bells of the catholic churches throughout the day. The people are friendly, accepting and welcome tourists with open arms. Sarajevo that was thorn by hatred and suffered Nazi-like ethnic cleansings just a bit over a decade ago, today seem to leave its past behind giving you a sense of both East and West as well as an interesting mix of cultures that awaits you around every corner.

What to do and see in Sarajevo:

Aside from historically significant places like the Latin Bridge where Archduke Franz Ferdinand and Sophie, Duchess of Hohenberg, were assassinated in 1914 beginning World War I, the city of Sarajevo offers a diverse array of interesting sites. Mosques, Orthodox and Catholic Churches, Jewish Synagogues stand minutes from each other and the city's history is evident in its diversity that includes open-air markets, ašcinica – pronounced ashchinitsa (traditional soup kitchens) and numerous cultural offerings.

Museums – There are several museums of interest on varying topics including the History Museum (city history) and the National Museum (10-14h, 11-19h Weds., Zmaja od Bosne 3 , phone: +387 33 668027 ), which covers everything from archeology to natural history and ethnography. If you're looking for a more religious experience check out the Orthodox Church Museum, which houses religious pieces in gold and silver as well as an assortment of icons both local and from abroad. To get a sense of the Siege of Sarajevo be sure to make the trip out to the airport and see the Tunnel Museum (9-18h, Tuneli 1 Street (Donji Kotorac 34 phone: +387 33 628 591), it's accessible by tram and taxi but you'll get a very real sense of what things were like along with a history lesson.

Mosques – Several mosques around the city open their doors to visitors and are worth seeing, the Ali Pasha's Mosque, built in 1561 after the death of its namesake in 1557 and The Emperor's Mosque, built on edict of the sultan around 1560 are two of the most prominent.

The city boasts several interesting sights such as the Bašcaršija or main marketplace, which makes up much of the old city area now, Gazi Husref-bey's covered marketplace, the old Town Hall (under reconstruction in 2009) and the Sebilj fountain capped by a wellhead designed by a Czech designer. It is said that if you drink from the waters of the fountain you will surely return to Sarajevo.

Where to stay in Sarajevo:

If you're the backpacking, hitchhiking type you'll find a range of accommodation in the city that will hook into your budget and expectations. The Haris Youth Hostel (Author's Choice), the idea of Haris Pamuk when only 15-years-old and opened by him and his family in 2003, offers five and six-bed rooms (reserve via HostelWorld). The main office is near the Bašcaršija tram stop and the hostel itself is up the hill past the Kovaci Martyr's Memorial Cemetery. Other hostels in the area include the Hostel City Center (Second Choice), Hostel Posillipo and a half dozen others.

Sarajevo City Overview

Those with bigger budget who like a more traditional hotel stay have a large selection to choose from including major chains like Holiday Inn. But if you want to be near the old-town center look into Hotel Bosnia, Central, Astra and the magnificent (and new) Hotel Europe, the five-star set-piece boasting opulent décor, a wellness & spa centre, Cafe & restaurant, and conference facilities just outside of the old-town Bašcaršija area. There is also a vast array of motels, private accommodation and guest houses available.

What to eat in Sarajevo:

Travelers who like to take in everything a culture has to offer when on the road will love the Balkans with its many local specialties. Vegetarians however might have a hard time finding a lot to eat unless they shop for themselves. Sarajevo has a meat-heavy cuisine that mixes cultures and tastes into a flavorful dining experience. In the old town area stop in at Ascinica Hadibajric, the oldest restaurant in town and check out the photo of HRM Otto Von Habsburg. If you're not sure what to have, they'll serve you up a sampler that will give you a taste of all of their traditional foods including cevapi (pron: chevapee) Bosnian meat sausages, filovane paprika - bell peppers filled with mincemeat, sogan-dolma onions stuffed with mincemeat, sarma meat and rice rolled in pickled cabbage leaves, and burek a filled flaky pastry, generally with meat, spinach or cheese.

How to get to Sarajevo:

Getting to Sarajevo is easy to do with buses, trains, and planes that arrive and depart several times daily. The main bus and train stations are 100 meters apart. There is also an eastern bus station that serves points east, like Serbia. The airport is some distance from the center but taxis are extremely cheap and should be no more than 25KM (about $18.75 US or 13 Euro). If arriving by car, parking will run a steep 3-5KM per hour.

No matter what kind of tourist you are, you will find something of interest in and around Sarajevo. The city is rich in history and culture and the people will strive to be accommodating. Sarajevo has done an excellent job of balancing the preservation of the culture while bringing itself back from the brink of destruction and into a modern city full of everything one could desire from a holiday destination. Be sure that when you travel you do so conscientiously and remain aware of cultural differences. Sarajevo mixes cultures and religions that have settled there over the centuries and to this day remains welcoming and tolerant of all.